The story behind Masters’ famous cheese sandwich

If you’re lucky enough to attend the Masters in person at some point in your life, there’s a short checklist of things to do when on the grounds of Augusta National: Take in the dramatic elevation changes, experience the beauty of Amen Corner, and … eat a pimento cheese sandwich.

Of course, there are many other things to do and see and taste at the Masters, but in the pantheon of food and drink pairings associated with the event, a pimento cheese sandwich and Augusta National may be at the top. They are like a mint julep to the Kentucky Derby, or strawberries and cream to Wimbledon.

But how did the relationship between the Southern staple and the first major tournament of the year begin? Author Rebecca Lang — a ninth-generation Southerner and Georgia native — tells the story in her new book, Pimento Cheese: A Southern Spread. Lang grew up on pimento cheese, and shared fond memories of sampling the sandwich at Augusta National.

“One of my first dates with my husband — we’ve been married 25 years — was at Augusta,” Lang said in a recent phone call. “And I remember, going the first time, it was so funny because I’m not a golfer, but I appreciate golf and I appreciate being outside. I think that’s the best part of it. But I remember how many sandwiches I ate that day. I mean, it was crazy, and it just added to the atmosphere so much.”

Pimento cheese first became popular in the US in the early 1900s as a newly discovered combination of cream cheese and canned chili peppers from Spain. As the spread grew in popularity over the decades, Georgia became the largest grower and canner of pimentos in the country, supplying more than 90 percent of US pimentos, although that number today is a fraction of what it once was.

After WWII, the spread of pimento began a new texture and consistency from the time it was first introduced, as families began to make their own pimento cheese at home, replacing cream cheese with hoop cheese – a soft and low-fat cow’s milk cheese – or cheddar, with mayonnaise. Thus, pimento cheese as we know it today was born.

When Lang decided to write a book about pimento cheese, he said he was inundated with stories about the spread from friends and neighbors.

“Every time I wrote this book, which took a year and a half or more, everyone in Athens – it’s not a big city – everyone here knew I was writing a book about pimento cheese,” Lang said. “I’ve heard from a zillion people who want to tell me their pimento cheese story, which is great, but most of the pimento cheese story is how their grandmother made pimento cheese when they were growing up, and they love pimento cheese.”

However, one day, a local woman named Virginia Herndon Stutsman approached Lang while they were both volunteering at a middle school football game. Stutsman had an amazing story: His grandparents, Ola and Hodges Herndon, were the first to serve pimento cheese sandwiches to the Masters.

“I’ve known Virginia for years,” Lang said. “He lives in my neighborhood. I see him all the time and he’s so polite, you wouldn’t know. So, he tells me this whole story and I said, look, let’s talk about this and I’ll start taking notes and put it on paper.

In addition to the story, Stutsman shared a box of memorabilia with Lang, including letters of thanks from Bobby Jones and Clifford Roberts, and a solid ashtray with the 13th hole of Augusta National, with his grandfather’s name engraved on it. The ashtray was a tribute to the 57 players who competed in 1948 – and to Herndon.

“It was amazing to see everything,” said Lang. “We spread it out on the dining room table, sadly she doesn’t have a recipe for egg salad or pimento cheese. If her grandmother was like my grandmother, she never used a recipe, it changed a little each time.”

Lang learned that in 1947, the Herndons approached the Masters and Augusta National founder Clifford Roberts to make sandwiches for tournament sponsors for 25 cents each. The Herndons, who owned a small restaurant and ran food service at the VA Hospital in Augusta, prepared egg salad, ham, and pimento cheese sandwiches to submit to the contest. Ola and Hodges’ son, Tom (Virginia’s father), and the brothers of University of Georgia Phi Delta Theta, helped deliver sandwiches to the club on Berckmans Road as each batch was finished.

The demands of making all those sandwiches eventually overwhelmed the Herndon kitchen. Local producer Nick Rangos took over pimento cheese production until 1998, when WifeSaver restaurant franchise owner Ted Godfrey was appointed. The reign of local pimento-cheese makers ended when Masters brought all deals in-house in 2013. The price, however, remains: $1.50.

Among the most interesting things about pimento cheese is that, as Lang says, the recipe is not set in stone. The ingredients stay the same, sure, but family methods and/or measurements are often kept close to the vest. Between each evolution of pimento cheese in the Masters, the previous recipes were not shared.

Luckily for us, Lang has no such qualms about sharing the details of his favorite pimento cheese blend. His new book includes more than 65 recipes: 35 for making pimento cheese, and another 30 that include pimento cheese as an ingredient. You can indulge in Lang’s favorite pimento cheese recipes below – or click the link to buy her book for yourself.

Pimento Cheese: A Southern Spread

In Rebecca Lang’s new book, the stalwart food writer gives readers a taste of the history of the popular spread and its versatility.

Rebecca Lang’s favorite pimento cheese recipes

Pimento Cheese: Augusta National Style

Makes 3 1/4 cups

2 (8 ounces) blocks of sharp cheddar cheese
3/4 cup mayonnaise
6 tablespoons unpeeled diced pimentos
2 ounces cream cheese, softened
1/4 teaspoon of salt

Grate the cheddar using the large holes of a box grater. Combine the cheddar, mayonnaise, pimentos, cream cheese, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed for 1 minute.

Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Pineapple Pimento Cheese

Makes 2 1/2 cups

1 (8-ounce) block extra sharp cheddar cheese
1 (8-ounce) can crushed pineapple in pineapple juice, unprocessed
1/3 cup roasted red bell pepper flakes, drained and roughly chopped
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons of mayonnaise
1/4 teaspoon of salt
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper, plus some for garnish

A dash of cayenne pepper

Grate the cheddar using the large holes of a box grater. Place the cheddar, pineapple, bell pepper, cream cheese, mayonnaise, salt, crushed red pepper, and cayenne pepper in a mixing bowl. Stir to combine. Garnish with crushed red pepper.

Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Pimento Cheese Stuffed with Okra

Makes 2 1/2 cups

1 (8-ounce) block medium cheddar cheese
1/3 cup of mayonnaise
1/4 cup chopped pimentos, dried
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 small shallot, chopped
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon of salt
12 pods pickled okra, drained and thinly sliced ​​(3/4 cup)

Grate the cheddar using the large holes of a box grater. Place the cheddar, mayonnaise, pimentos, Worcestershire, shallot, cayenne pepper, and salt in a mixing bowl. Stir to combine. Fold the pickled okra until well distributed. Leave for 2 hours before serving.

Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 week.